Risks of performing a chemical peel at home

Learn about the risks of performing a chemical peel at home, which options may be more suitable and some recommendations to help minimise potential problems.

Chemical peels are an established option for improving several skin concerns associated with ageing and skin quality, including pigmentation, thickened skin texture, reduced radiance, acne marks and fine superficial wrinkles. Although they can be performed on different areas of the body, chemical peels are most commonly used on the face.

The procedure is usually carried out in a dermatologist’s clinic and generally takes around 20 minutes from the time the patient arrives until they leave. However, with the growing popularity of home skincare and DIY treatments, there are now kits and recipes available online that attempt to reproduce this procedure at home.

This trend towards using treatments without the supervision of a specialist in chemical peels is a concern for medical professionals, not so much because of the potential effectiveness of these home treatments, but because of the risks they may pose to people who decide to try them without specialist guidance.

What is a chemical peel?

A chemical peel is an aesthetic treatment in which a formulation containing acids, often derived from fruit acids and used at different concentrations, is applied to the face to produce controlled exfoliation of the superficial layers of the skin. As these layers are shed, the skin may appear clearer, brighter, smoother and more even.

Indications for chemical peels

Chemical peels can be used for a number of indications, including regulating excess sebum production, unclogging and cleansing pores, renewing the skin surface, reducing pigmentation and fine lines, evening out skin tone, refining skin texture and improving smoothness.

They may be particularly suitable for patients with visible signs of photoageing, such as pigmentation, dull skin and fine wrinkles, as well as for people with acne marks, uneven skin texture, enlarged pores, a thickened stratum corneum or excess sebum production.

Chemical peels can produce an immediate improvement in skin appearance that may continue to develop over the following days. They can also stimulate collagen and elastin production. As a result, the skin may appear smoother, brighter and more even. Acne marks, small scars, fine lines and wrinkles may become less noticeable, while pores may appear cleaner and less enlarged as a result of exfoliation of the stratum corneum.

How is a chemical peel performed?

Although patients are asked to attend the appointment with clean skin and without make-up, a medical chemical peel begins by applying a degreasing solution to the face to remove residual sebum and cosmetic products from the skin surface. More delicate areas of the face — including the sides of the nose, corners of the mouth and outer eye area — are then protected with neutral petroleum jelly to reduce the risk of irritation.

The acid formulation is subsequently applied across the face and left in place for approximately two to five minutes, depending on the characteristics and needs of the patient’s skin. The type and concentration of acid used will also depend on the intended effect. Once the appropriate application time has elapsed, the acid formulation is neutralised with an alkaline solution sprayed onto the skin and then removed using gauze or cotton pads. Finally, a restorative cream with a high sun protection factor — SPF 50+ — is applied.

After a chemical peel

During the treatment, patients may experience mild stinging or itching on the face as a result of the irritant action of the acid formulation. This is expected and generally subsides once the product is neutralised. After the procedure, the skin may be slightly red and mild peeling may occur over the following days. This is also an expected response.

Patients should be particularly careful with sun protection after treatment and use SPF 50+ sunscreen to reduce the risk of pigmentation caused by ultraviolet radiation.

Otherwise, make-up can usually be applied within a few hours of the procedure and normal skincare routines can be resumed, although vigorous rubbing of the skin should be avoided during the first 24 hours.

What are the risks of performing a chemical peel at home?

One of the key factors determining both the effectiveness and safety of a chemical peel is selecting the appropriate combination of acids and establishing a concentration that achieves the intended effect without causing skin damage.

The main risk of performing a chemical peel at home arises from not having the clinical knowledge required to assess the condition of the skin and determine what it needs at that particular time.

Treating healthy, thicker skin that is accustomed to medical or dermatological procedures is not the same as performing a peel on delicate or sensitive skin, or on skin affected by rosacea or dermatitis. In these situations, inappropriate treatment could cause wounds, burns or even permanent skin changes.

Using acids at an unsuitable concentration or leaving the product on the skin for too long — sometimes because of the mistaken belief that a longer application time will make the treatment more effective — considerably increases the risk of excessive irritation and even chemical burns. These injuries may subsequently lead to pigmentation changes and scarring, including both depressed and raised scars.

Skin injury may also contribute to the reactivation of herpes simplex. The original version of this article also noted that prolonged use of protective face masks during the coronavirus pandemic could further disrupt the skin barrier and increase skin sensitivity.

Overall, an at-home chemical peel carries the risk not only of failing to improve the original concern but also of causing new problems or aggravating existing ones.

Which chemical peels can be used at home?

In view of these considerations, anyone considering an at-home chemical peel should preferably choose commercially formulated products containing low concentrations of active ingredients and avoid preparing homemade acid mixtures, as concentrations and proportions are much more difficult to control accurately.

Low-concentration products containing hydroxy acids or salicylic acid are commercially available and may provide good results when used on healthy skin. However, before purchasing one of these products, it is advisable to consult a dermatologist to rule out underlying skin conditions such as rosacea, dermatitis, allergy or acne and to obtain appropriate guidance on how the product should be used.

Physical exfoliating products such as scrubs are another option. They also remove superficial skin cells but are generally easier to control. Their frequency of use should nevertheless be adapted to the individual’s skin type and tolerance.

Post updated. First version published on 31 August 2022.

We invite you to share this article about the risks of performing a chemical peel at home with family and friends who may find it useful.