Curly method: everything you need to know

Learn everything you need to know about the curly method step by step: who it is suitable for, which products to use and avoid, and how to care for curly hair.

The curly method is a hair care routine that has become increasingly popular. It claims to help achieve well-defined curls — not only in people with naturally curly hair, but also in those with wavy hair, and some sources even suggest that it can be adapted for straight hair.

Broadly speaking, the method involves spacing out hair washes and using products without sulphates, silicones, mineral oils or waxes. It also recommends frequent use of hair masks and conditioners while reducing the use of shampoo.

Specialists from our Hair Disorders and Hair Transplant Unit explain the characteristics of curly hair, clarify the potential benefits of this method and provide context on some of the products and ingredients it advises against.

Why is your hair curly?

Whether hair is straight or curly depends on the shape it takes as it develops within the hair follicle. When the hair shaft has a circular cross-section and the keratin fibres — keratin being the main structural protein in hair — are organised through straight disulphide bonds, the hair is straight. By contrast, when the hair follicle produces a hair fibre with an elliptical cross-section and the disulphide bonds organising the keratin are positioned diagonally, the hair becomes curly. The shape of each person’s curls is therefore genetically determined, and curl pattern is a natural characteristic of hair texture.

Characteristics of curly hair

Curly hair generally tends to be drier than straight hair. This is because the sebum produced by the sebaceous glands of the scalp has more difficulty travelling along a curved hair shaft than along a straight one.

However, it is important to clarify that sebum production is not determined by hair shape. A person with curly hair may produce just as much sebum as someone with straight hair.
Sebum and shed skin cells can therefore accumulate on the scalp of people with curly hair in the same way as they can in people with slightly wavy or straight hair.

What are sulphates?

Sulphates, which are excluded from the curly method, are detergent surfactants. They help shampoos to foam and dissolve the dirt and sebum that accumulate on the skin and hair, thereby removing residue and ensuring adequate hair and scalp hygiene. Removing dirt, excess sebum and shed skin cells from the scalp using surfactants is necessary to maintain proper hygiene and help prevent problems such as dandruff and seborrhoea. Inadequate scalp hygiene may contribute to conditions such as dermatitis or folliculitis.

However, there are different types of sulphates, with varying levels of detergent activity and therefore different cleansing capacities. It is true that stronger sulphates may be too aggressive for the scalp, causing irritation and contributing to hair dryness. This may result in increased frizz, dryness of the hair shaft and greater static electricity.

However, milder sulphates with lower detergent activity are generally better tolerated and do not necessarily cause these effects.

What are silicones?

Silicones are synthetic polymers with hydrophobic properties, meaning they help retain moisture by forming a type of seal over the surface to which they are applied. They can be found in shampoos, conditioners and styling products, as well as in make-up and facial skincare products, where they help keep the skin smooth and soft.

Silicones form a thin, water-resistant layer around the hair cuticle. This helps retain moisture within the hair shaft while preventing environmental humidity from penetrating the hair and causing frizz. Shampoos and conditioners containing silicones can therefore be particularly useful for dry and curly hair, as they help smooth the hair, seal the cuticle and reduce moisture absorption. The main drawback is that silicone-based shampoos and conditioners can weigh the hair down, particularly when the hair is fine.

What is co-washing in the curly method?

One of the key principles of the curly method is co-washing. This involves washing the hair with conditioner rather than shampoo, with the aim of avoiding increased dryness and frizz. However, our specialists point out that if conditioners are used as cleansing products, it is important to ensure that they contain surfactants so that they can provide both cleansing and conditioning. This is the basis of the co-washing approach used in the curly method.

Is the curly method suitable for everyone?

Although some online sources suggest that the curly method can be used to create curls in people with wavy or even straight hair, this hair care routine is only useful for caring for hair that is naturally curly. It cannot make naturally straight hair become curly.

The curly method is a specific hair care routine designed to prevent curly hair from becoming excessively dry and therefore frizzy. It aims to avoid excessively strong cleansing products and to prevent the curl pattern from being altered by the weight of water-insoluble silicones that may accumulate on the hair fibre. People with fine, straight hair are therefore unlikely to benefit from the recommendations of the curly method. On the contrary, these products and routines may leave their hair weighed down and looking greasy or unclean.

Tips for caring for curly hair

Appropriate cleansing for curly hair

The idea that curly hair does not become dirty is a widespread myth, but it is not true. How quickly hair becomes dirty depends on factors such as environmental pollution, sweating and sebum production on the scalp. Curly hair should therefore be washed whenever necessary, using cleansing products formulated with mild surfactants.

Conditioner for curly hair

Curly hair can benefit from the use of conditioners because these products make the hair easier to manage, help reduce frizz and static electricity, and support curl definition, softness and shine. Conditioner should preferably be applied to the mid-lengths and ends, as this is the oldest and most fragile part of the hair fibre and generally requires the most conditioning.

Hair serums and oils for curly hair

After removing excess water with a towel, applying a serum or oil-based hair care product can help reduce dehydration of the hair fibre and improve the appearance and manageability of curly hair.

Take care with heat

It is advisable to limit the use of curling irons, straighteners and hairdryers and to avoid using these devices at their highest temperature, as excessive heat can damage the cuticle of the hair fibre. Whenever possible, allowing the hair to air-dry is preferable. If a hairdryer is used, applying a heat-protection product to wet hair can help reduce heat-related damage.

Styling and maintaining curly hair

As with straight hair, curly hair is best combed or brushed while it is still damp. For curly hair, a wide-toothed comb or even the fingers can be used to help maintain and define the curl pattern. It is also advisable to avoid very tight hairstyles — such as buns or ponytails — that exert excessive traction on the scalp. During the summer or when spending time at the beach, a hair-specific sun protection product can also be used.

These recommendations are general, however, and should be adapted to the individual characteristics and needs of each person’s hair. Factors such as climate, physical activity and the use of hairdryers, straighteners or curling irons should also be taken into account when establishing the most appropriate hair care routine.

Finally, anyone experiencing prolonged or excessive hair loss leading to reduced hair density, or scalp symptoms such as pruritus (itching), irritation or scaling, should consult a dermatologist, preferably a dermatologist expert in hair disorders, so that an appropriate diagnosis can be made and treatment started when necessary.

Post updated. First version published on 27 July 2022.

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