Learn what retinoic acid is used for in treatments targeting signs of skin ageing, when it may be contraindicated and how it differs from retinol.
Indications: what is retinoic acid used for?
Retinoic acid is one of the most extensively studied active ingredients used to treat signs of skin ageing. It is the acidic form of vitamin A and is also known as tretinoin. Although it was originally developed for the treatment of acne, it has also been used for decades in dermatology to improve signs associated with photoageing and skin ageing.
Retinoic acid can help regulate pigmentation and promote epidermal cell turnover, contributing to a more even skin tone and smoother texture. It can also improve the appearance of wrinkles and overall skin quality. It may be indicated in patients with hyperpigmentation, thickened or dull skin and signs of photoageing such as fine lines and wrinkles.
Contraindications and application
Retinoic acid can irritate the skin and may not be suitable for people with very sensitive skin, even after a gradual adaptation period. In general, treatment is introduced using low concentrations and may initially be applied on alternate days. Particular care should be taken around more sensitive areas, including the sides of the nose, corners of the mouth and eye contour. Depending on the patient’s response, the dermatologist may recommend adjusting the concentration, changing the frequency of application or discontinuing treatment if significant adverse effects occur.
Retinoic acid products are generally applied at night to clean, dry skin. During the day, the use of a high-protection sunscreen is essential, preferably SPF 50.
Differences between retinoic acid and retinol
Retinoic acid and retinol are often confused, although there are important differences between them despite both being vitamin A derivatives. Retinoic acid, or tretinoin, is a medicine. It therefore requires medical prescription and follow-up. The prescribing doctor determines the appropriate concentration and application regimen and monitors the patient’s response to treatment.
Retinol, by contrast, is a cosmetic active ingredient with similar biological pathways but lower potency than retinoic acid. For this reason, it is commonly included in over-the-counter skincare products intended to improve signs of skin ageing. However, retinol can also cause skin irritation, particularly at higher concentrations, and should therefore be introduced with appropriate precautions according to individual skin tolerance.
Other acids used to improve skin health and appearance
In addition to retinoic acid, other active ingredients and acids are commonly used in dermatology and skincare for different indications. These include glycolic acid, hyaluronic acid, azelaic acid, salicylic acid, ferulic acid, kojic acid, lactic acid and mandelic acid, among others. Their indication depends on the patient’s skin characteristics, diagnosis and treatment objectives.
Summary
Retinoic acid is a well-established treatment option for selected patients with signs of skin ageing, photoageing, hyperpigmentation or acne. It can improve skin texture, pigmentation and the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. However, because tretinoin is a prescription medicine and can cause irritation, it should be used under medical supervision, particularly in patients with sensitive skin.
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